About Me

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Hello, Ciao,안녕하세요, Hallo, Hola, Selamat tengahari! My name is Rachael and I am a travel enthusiast. Ever since I can remember, my parents have taken my brother, sister and I on good ol' American road trips. It's safe to say that was where my interest in new places, people and experiences was ignited. As my parents always encouraged my siblings and I to explore and ask questions, I developed a sincere curiosity for new adventures. In addition to seeing much of the United States with my favorite travel companions (my family), I had the opportunity to spend a semester in Rome, Italy, as well as a semester in Seoul, South Korea during my college career. Now, I am honored to be taking part in a Fulbright ETA Scholarship to Malaysia for a year! My family's favorite motto is "Life is all about the journey, not the destination." I invite you to join along in my journey of cultural exchange and mutual understanding in Malaysia! After all, the more, the merrier.
Showing posts with label Terengganu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Terengganu. Show all posts

Friday, February 1, 2013

Coming to a close: The Terengganu Fulbright Family



The 50 Malaysia Fulbright ETAs at the Prime Minister's for High Tea.
January 2012.
“Happiness is found not in the things we collect, but in the connections we keep"
- quote on a greeting card

As I have mentioned in previous posts, there were 50 Fulbright ETAs who represented the United States in Malaysia for 2012. Among the 50, 17 of us were placed in Terengganu, Malaysia. On a few occasions, all 50 ETAs were able to meet and connect, which generated great conversation, as well as quite a good time.

However, most of my personal time was spent with the 17 Terengganu ETAs who were placed in districts along the coast of the South China Sea. Our Terengganu cohort became known as the “T-gannu Crew.” Throughout the course of the year, we spent a great deal of time together. Each of us had a community of family and friends back at home to nurture connections with. However, beyond that, we were given the wonderful opportunity to nurture friendships and connections with one another. We became one another’s fellow ETAs, fellow teachers and fellow expatriates. We also became one another’s support system and source of inspiration. Over the course of the year, we became something of a Terengganu family. A simple weekend together hanging out provided a sense of motivation, support, inspiration and sanity in the midst of some uncomfortable, unfamiliar situations and experiences. Together, the 17 of us were able to create an environment that felt like something similar “home."

In addition to my support system back home at America, I owe my experience and accomplishments in Malaysia to my fellow Terengganu ETAs who became dear friends. Thank you Kamayani, Kate, Katie, Morgan, Melissa, Julie, Marquitta, Hannah, Nazeeha, Chelsea, Jonathan, Jordan, Nick, Michael and of course, my roommate Christina.

Terima kasih kawan kawan! Cannot wait to see where we meet next, and long live the roti rolls…


Chesley's Malaysian Adventure: Besut




After our tour around Kuala Gandah, Taman Negara and Cameron Highlands, we headed for my village in Besut. On our way to Besut, we rode in a crowded white van with two other couples from Europe. On more than one occasion, we made stops along the road in order for the driver to pray, as well as for us to eat. At one point, we were driving along the border of Malaysia and Thailand, and we stopped at an outdoor restaurant. I encouraged my family to get out and enjoy some roti canai (Indian flatbread served with curry). They were surprised how unhesitant I was to purchase food at this rough around the edges food stall on the side of a road. For reference, there is no way it could have ever passed health code in the United States. However, my family claims it was some of the best roti canai they had while in Malaysia. We still like to laugh that they never would have eaten at a place that looked like that in America.

My family hanging out in my kitchen! It was always
pretty hot in there!
After a six-hour journey, we approached my village. I became overwhelmed with a sense of excitement to show my family my house and the temporary environment that I had been living in. My family stayed in my house with my roommate and I, and Christina and I were ecstatic to have our house full of people and noise.

In Besut, my family experienced my local night market, as well as the local beach. Going to the night market by myself attracted enough attention, so when it was an entire Western family, it attracted more attention than you could ever imagine. The local people did not try to hide their stares and wide eyes. My family definitely experienced a taste of the daily attention I received during my time there. While walking around, I saw many of my students, and one little boy in particular saw my “very tall brother” and froze in fear and ran away. In a nutshell, a half hour at the night market was not only a once in a lifetime experience for my family, but for the entire village of Besut.

Hiking Bukit Keluang in Besut near the beach!
My mom and sister looking out
over the ocean.
A trip to the local beach also generated a great deal of attention. In my village, beaches are not meant for swimming or sun bathing. It is an area to relax in normal clothes, have a picnic and hang out. As my family sat on the sand looking out at the South China Sea, young children kept trying to throw their soccer ball our way. In this way, they would have a reason to come over and say hello. As time passed, the children became more comfortable, and soon enough, four young boys approached us. At first, they simply stared at us as if to say, “What the heck are you all doing in Besut, Malaysia?” After we exchanged some words in English, as well as Malay, they pointed to Hannah and asked “Can we take picture with she?”

A chicken sate dinner that we enjoyed in Jerteh!
On another occasion, when my roommate, family and I decided to go to the local town, Jerteh, we never anticipated the difficulty that would be involved with transporting six people back to my house. We took two taxis into the town. However, for the route home, we could not find a taxi. After at least an hour of trying to hunt down a taxi and barter for prices, I approached a lady and asked her if she knew anyone that I could call to drive us home, because we had absolutely no options at this point. She told me to wait, and I waited hoping that she would provide phone numbers to other taxis. Instead, she came back with two middle-aged men.  “They drive you,” she exclaimed. Christina and I looked at each other and were a bit unsure. Seeing as though this was our only option, we decided to take down this lady’s phone number and wrote down the license plate numbers of the strange vehicles we were all getting into. Obviously, getting into cars with strangers is not something that is encouraged, but we were stranded. We divided ourselves up between the two cars. Christina drove in one and I drove in the other. During our twenty- minute drive home, we texted each other to make sure the cars were following one another. Everyone made it back home. Moreover, in the beat-down car I drove in, the strange man had a flip down TV that featured Baliwood dance videos with women shaking and dancing in outfits with beads and sequins. Judging from the outside of the car, that is the last thing I would have expected on the inside. The topic of conversation after that unusual and bizarre experience was, “Did we just drive in cars with strangers in a foreign country?” “Yes. Yes we did.” Overall, my parents could not believe how much work it took for Nina and I to simply go about our day-to-day lives in a foreign country. My family witnessed that simple things, which require hardly any hard effort in one’s home country, take so much more time and energy in a foreign setting with a foreign language.

The batik factory of Besut. 
Batik factory will large pieces of fabric and an adorable
little Malay boy who was keeping himself busy!
On one afternoon, my good, taxi driver friend, Amir, drove my family and I to a batik (fabric) factory in my village. The batik factory was home to beautiful fabrics with gorgeous material and prints. As we walked through the dust and sand that lined the ground, we took in the large sheets of fabric hanging all around us. There were rubber boots, gloves and buckets everywhere to be found, as well as oversized, wooden weaves and fabric stretches. As we approached an artisan, who was in the midst of painting intricate details on a piece of batik, my mom could not help by notice a little Malay boy playing in the mud on the ground with a stick in his hand. He seemed perfectly content there below the large pieces of colorful batik in his family’s factory, while stirring mud into some sort of concoction.

During my family’s week in Besut, it was my sister’s 17th birthday! For her birthday, my mom made an Asian stir- fry with awesome soy sauce as well as with anything that could be found at the local market. She also made a birthday cake from mix she had brought from the States. For the celebration, Christina and I invited fellow Fulbrighters Nick, Jordan and Michael to join, and they were excited to spend time with my American family. It was always refreshing to have visitors around! The food was delicious and such a treat, and the birthday cake literally tasted like the best thing on earth. As my mom prepared the food and cake in the un-air conditioned kitchen, the temperature rose to at least 110 degrees. My poor mother commented that she felt as though she had been beaten to death by the intense heat. Although the heat of the house caused the birthday cake frosting to quickly melt down into something of a colored butter sauce, it was still an occasion to remember. 

My mentor's family hosted us all for dinner one night!

My sister, Christina and I with our Malay friends from Besut!

My family and local Malay friends enjoying roti canai together at
Nasi Kandar, my favorite restaurant in Besut.

My mom and sister watching the man make roti canai at my favorite
restaurant in Besut, Nasi Kandar!

My mom and sister at a local baju kurung shop in Jerteh.
The girls that work at the shop were very excited to meet them!


Teachers from my KHAS class took my family and I to a
restaurant with karaoke. The owner even say 'happy birthday'
to my sister!

The artisan explained in Malay the art of creating batik.



Amir guiding my family through the factory. They normally did
not get American visitors, so it came as a huge surprise to the artisans.
My family posing with the time-chain Christina and I made.
It counted down the days until their visit. 

Thursday, January 17, 2013

Journey Along Route 3


Map of Terengganu, Malaysia. If you look on the far east coast line of Terengganu,
you will see a red line right along the South China Sea indicating Route 3.
Route 3 allowed the other Terengganu ETAs and I to stay well-connected, as well as explore
the mainland and islands. At the far north is Besut. In the central is Kuala Terengganu. Far south is Kemaman.
Photo: Google maps

Typical view while driving along Route 3. 

Route 3 is the largest road that runs down the eastern coast of Peninsular Malaysia. To be exact, the highway starts in Kelantan (the northern most state of Malaysia) and runs down to Johor Bharu, a large city in Johor, which is near Singapore.

Route 3 was near and dear to the Terengganu ETAs’ hearts, because it allowed us all to stay very well connected despite the miles that separated most of us. The Fulbright ETAs were placed in districts that extended down the coast, and Route 3 allowed us to drive and/or take bus trips from one place to another. Route 3 connected Christina, Michael and I in Besut to Jordan and Nick in Setiu, to Hannah, Nazeeha, Chelsea and Jonathan in Kuala Terengganu and Julie and Marquitta in Marang down to Kamayani, Katie and Kate in Dungun and finally to Melissa and Morgan in Kemaman. To give you an idea, to travel from Besut in northern Terengganu to Kemaman in the south took about 5-6 hours.

Melissa, Michael, Jonathan and I with the Malaysian
McDonald's clown. I've always thought that he was
a creepy guy, but it was elevated when he started speaking
in a heavy Australian accent with creepy faces.
I always looked forward to the quick trips down Route 3 to visit friends in other places. I especially looked forward to spending time with my fellow friends. A ride down Route 3 passed through beautiful mountains, interesting ‘kampung’ (villages), beautiful coastline and even one McDonalds, which was a big treat at the time.

Ironically, one of my favorite memories of Route 3 was in February, at the beginning of our Fulbright experience. Nick and Jordan’s landlord was nice enough to offer them an SUV to use, so Christina and I piled in and we headed to Kemaman to meet up with other ETAs. On the return journey from Kemaman, we stopped at McDonalds to enjoy one last bite of somewhat American cuisine before heading back to our villages in the north. When we went to start the car after enjoying our meals, it would not start. In addition, we could not get in touch with any of our mentors and contacts in Malaysia. So, Jordan and I quickly searched for some sign of a car or insurance book in the vehicle. I had never had vehicle issues in USA, let alone abroad before.  I found a number to call and tried to explain in Malay that we were stuck and still had a three- hour drive ahead of us. No luck. I wondered what I would do about school the following morning, and I wondered how the heck we were going to make it back. Eventually, Jordan and Nick’s landlord called a friend of a friend of a friend in the area, who showed up in the parking lot to provide help. Although a few hours behind schedule, we did make it back. But honestly, I could not help but laugh. Never did I think I would be stranded in a McDonald’s parking lot in Malaysia calling a Malaysian automobile company for car support.

The group together in Cherating, Pahang, Malaysia.
It was accessible by Route 3 through Kemaman in
southern Terengganu. Cherating even had a bar called
Litte Bali and we were able to wear our sundresses and
t-shirts!
The bumps, curves, straight-ways and memories of the one and only Route 3 allowed us to build strong friendships, camaraderie and a solid support system. Many of our weekends in Malaysia were filled with little road trips down the coastline, visiting one another, gathering together as a group and enjoying each other’s company. Those were probably some of my favorite memories from my time in Malaysia!

 After months of
food that bore no resemblance
to American cuisine,
McDonald's was a treat.


The view from Kemaman, Terengganu in the south.
Cherating, Pahang, Malaysia.
This is a restaurant on the beach there.
It is accessible by Route 3.
Northern Terengganu near Besut. 6 hours south from here
were Kemaman and Cherating, Malaysia. (as shown above)
Melissa and I (with my sunburn) relaxing on the
Perhentians together.
Walking along the shore of Kapas Island. It was
as if we had a private island.
The lodge that ETAs stayed in while on Kapas Island.
It was always a great place to catch some shut-eye and chat.
Christina, Kamayani and I got enthusiastic about nuts
we found in Chinatown, Kuala Terengganu.

Jonathan, Kamayani and I! We loved snorkeling and
swimming in the South China Sea!

The Terengganu ETAs hanging out at me and Christina's
house in Besut. And no, the TV didn't work.  We spent our nights
together on the mainland simply hanging out and chatting.
Terengganu ETAs getting creative in
me and Christina's kitchen. Julie made
mac n' cheese, with Velveeta cheese
sent to her from America, and Michael
made beans!
Christina and I had a neat watermelon ball. To pass time
together, we sometimes played games in my house. Here,
Jordan, Jonathan, Hafiz, Nick and I were playing four square.
It is remarkable how one can keep herself/himself entertained.
One of the many road trips in the SUV with Nick and Jordan.
Sometimes, I got stuck sitting in the back. 
Marquitta, Morgan, Christina and I nice and cozy in
the SUV! It would become quite hot at points along
the journey.
After not seeing each other for a while, it was always
nice to be reunited with one another!
The female ETAs hanging out around the fire on Kapas Island. 
Route 3 allowed Terengganu ETAs to access the Perhentian
Islands in Besut (north), as well as Kapas Island near
Kuala Terengganu. (central) The islands were a great place
to unwind and relax.

Tuesday, January 15, 2013

*Quiet*


Living in a rural, Islamic village with unreliable internet and a 13- hour time difference from Chicago did not provide many opportunities for distractions. As I mentioned in early posts, I did not have my regular spin classes, Tuesday $2 draft nights with friends, frequent text messages vibrating my phone, train rides and adventures in Chicago or my familiar community of family or friends around me. All in all, it was perhaps the most ‘quiet’ I have ever experienced in my life.

I am from a family that keeps its doors always open. With that, life in America is full of people, laughs and splendid little moments each and everyday. Therefore, as I acclimated to a ‘quiet’ life in Malaysia, I strived to find things that could keep my mind occupied after school hours. For someone with my personality, it was not easy, but I did it. And, overall, looking back, I realize that the ‘quiet’ I experienced allowed me greater insight to me, myself and I. Without so many distractions, I was faced to nurture a relationship with myself and in essence, really get familiar with who I was.

In fact, earlier this week I explained my ‘quiet’ experience to a dear friend. I explained that the lack of ‘noise’ in my life made me feel very much alone at times. However, it is neat to have experienced a long-term, intensely quiet and seemingly lonely experience. Without ‘noise’ (even working Internet at times and a sufficient television), I was faced to sit with myself and my thoughts. Not many individuals get so much time to build a relationship with themselves. That in itself is neat, mind boggling and eye opening all at once.

Now, with that being said, I think ‘quiet’ was a once in a lifetime experience. Therefore, I probably would not rush to sign up for having so much ‘quiet’ again. Also, in no way would I romanticize the experience either. Parts of it were tough. Really tough. All in all, I am merely mentioning that if you allow yourself true ‘quiet,’ you may be amazed by how much you can learn about yourself. 

I had a great deal of quiet time this year. 


Monday, January 14, 2013

Besut


One of the many fishing boats housed in Kuala Besut.

 A beautiful view of the sea.
Besut was my town and community for the duration of my Fulbright stint. Besut is located on the border of the Malaysian states of Terengganu and Kelantan. Moreover, it is about an hour and fifteen minute drive to the southern border of Thailand. Besut is influenced by the Kelantanese, and many people who live in Besut are originally from Kelantan. Terengganu and Kelantan are known as the most conservative states of Malaysia. Besut is known as the most conversative area of Terengganu. Living in Besut was interesting, because I did not only learn about Terengganu’s cultures and customs, but I learned about Kelantanese traditions as well.

The highway connecting Besut to Kuala Terengganu,
as well as Kota Bharu. Kuala Terengganu and Kota
Bharu were the nearest cities.
The district of Besut is home to Kuala Besut as well as Jerteh. My home was nestled right between these two places. Kuala Besut is the small fishing village on the South China Sea. It is home to fishing boats, small shops, narrow shops and the jumping-off point to Pulau Perhentian, which are the famous islands off the coast of Besut that attract many tourists every year. Jerteh was a small city located about fifteen miles inward from Kuala Besut. These two places were connected by a major road, which my home was located along. Jerteh was home to tight, busy roads and stalls full of clothing and food. In fact, by the time we left Besut, Jerteh was even home to a Pizza Hut! Michael, Christina and I found this particularly exciting!
Michael and I  were so excited to try-out
the new Pizza Hut in Jerteh!

Besut is about three hours from Kuala Terengganu and two hours from Kota Bharu, depending on who is driving! Although there were obviously no Targets, Walmarts or one-stop shops, over the course of the year, we familiarized with what the town did have to offer.

Nasi Kandar! Our favorite place to get roti canai.
We frequented Supermas for our baking goods, food and popcorn kernals (which we used very often for homemade popcorn). We quickly got to know the people at Caltex, which was our local gas station, and when we needed top-up (the money for our phones), we set off for the local mom and pop shop next to the local bakery with Nestle ice cream bars.

When we needed a ride somewhere and could not go by scooter, we called Amir, who drove a taxi and became quite familiar with our frequent calls and rides. When we were craving roti canai, we went to the local Nasi Kandar. Nasi Kandar became our second home, and the people there were immensely accommodating and nice to us. I was always eager to practice my Malay with them and try new phrases. In addition, they were so ecstatic to meet my family when they came to visit. Although we were very loyal to Nasi Kandar, we were also regulars at Gemilang. Gemilang was a large, outdoor restaurant with great service and a mean nasi ayam (rice and chicken). 

A restaurant in Kuala Besut that had a beautiful view of the
South China Sea.
Aside from restaurants and shops, Besut was home to night markets on any given night of the week, as well as D’Aora, which was an aerobics and Zumba place just for women. After a teacher invited me, I worked out there several times. I will never forget how surprised I was to discover that a) Besut had a place for Zumba AND b) how intense the classes and women in the classes were. It was a place where women could wear whatever they wanted and dance their butts off. In fact, after attending several classes, I invested in my own Zumba skirt decked out in sequins and jewels. Along with Zumba, Christina and I often went running on her school's running track. Although the track backed up to a somewhat busy road, we were able to run there without attracting too much attention. Those hour-long classes, as well as my runs at the track, almost made me forget that I was thousands of miles away from my home in America. 

A daily sighting on my ride home from school in my village

The images of Besut will forever stay in my mind. Whether it was strolling the local night market, riding in a taxi, wandering Kuala Besut, enjoying food in Jerteh, dancing at D’Aora, running at the track or walking down the street surrounded by cows and chickens while taking out the trash, those scenarios and places were part of my everyday life for ten months and will remain with me forever. 





My typical ride home from Supermas, our grocery store.


Nasi Kandar, when my family came to visit! It was a
great place to watch the 2012 Olympics as well, especially when
Malaysian Lee Chong Wei made it to the finals for badminton!
The beach at Bukit Keluang, located along the South China Sea and
about ten minutes from my house. Some fellow Fulbrighters and our Malaysian friend, Hafiz,
came to visit and we enjoyed some ultimate frisbee on the sandy shore!

The rice paddies of my village, Kampung Amir, in Besut.

The shore of the South China Sea in Besut. In Besut, people do not
swim at the beach, as people do in America. However, it is
beautiful to relax and look at, as well as wade in.


The running track that Christina and I used frequently.



Latan Belantan, Besut.
A jungle trek through a tight trail lead to a beautiful waterfall!

The waterfall at Latan Belantan, Besut.
It was quite a jungle trek, but it was completely worth it.
At the top, my friends and I took time to sit in peace and quiet,
and I even took the opportunity to roll my pants up into capris and feel
the fresh water on my feet!

A typical view from my ride home from school in Besut.

View from the shore in Besut. I often looked at this view and thought to myself,

"O my goodness... I'm literally on the other side of the world."