My Little Corner of Paradise

The clear blue water of Pulau Perhentian. It was ideal for snorkeling
and scuba diving.

Enjoying a fresh coconut!

As I mentioned in my last blog post, Besut, Kuala Besut was the jumping-off point for Pulau Perhentian. Although many Americans have not heard of Pulau Perhentian, or the Perhentian Islands, it is a very popular vacation destination among Europeans. Pulau Perhentian is known for its white, sandy beaches, its beautiful, crystal blue water and its rustic feel. Not to mention, it is renown for its scuba diving and snorkeling, which I took advantage of on many different occasions.

The beach and dock at Coral Bay!

During my stint living in Besut, I ventured out to Pulau Perhentian at least a dozen times. Throughout my visits, I got to know the people there very well, and it became sincerely comfortable to go there. It was a place that made me feel very much at home as well as relaxed. Sometimes after adapting to a culture so different than my own on the mainland, it was comforting to put on a sundress, layout, swim in the clear, blue water and hang out with friends drinking a Tiger or Chang beer on the beach. Overall, the feel of the island was rustic, yet so seemingly familiar.

Amin, Wan and a guest singer at Monkey Bar on Long Beach!

Mama D and I at Ombak Cafe
on Coral Bay, Pulau.

Mila, Norlin and I at Ombak Cafe!

My favorite restaurant on the island was Ombak Café, and I was able to get to know Mama D, Mila and the entire crew there. I remember weekends biting into their delicious pizzas, while watching a live, outdoor movie. They always greeted me with hugs, and we would converse about the last few weeks since I had last seen them. During the day, I loved going to Panorama restaurant and sipping on one of their cold, fresh mango juices or sipping milk out of a coconut. When the sun went down, I always could be found sitting in the sand with my friends listening to Amin, Wan and the gang play live cover music of popular Western music, including Jason Mraz and Bob Marley. After listening to music, my friends and I would wander on down the beach to Black Tip and dance under the moon with our toes in the sand and the waves rushing over our feet.

The long dock from the boat to
Coral Bay beach on Pulau.

Whenever I ventured to Pulau, I always enjoyed getting off the boat and walking down the long dock to Coral Bay. I would say “hello” to my friends at Sharila Resort such as Rosi, Faizul and Emily, as well as Iss and Jeremiah at Stephens Divers. I will never forget sharing some of my stories and questions from my experience on the mainland and being able to have truly meaningful and comfortable conversations with them.

Pulau Perhentian introduced me to the warm sun, scuba diving, tranquility, simplicity, underwater discoveries and immense beauty. Often, I swam and floated in the clear water at Long Beach and looked out at the mountains and vast jungle that spread over them. I would think about my experience in Malaysia as well as my life back home.

Pulau's rustic feel was unlike anywhere
I had ever been!

My last ride from the Pulau Perhentian to the mainland was one filled of tears and happiness. In some way, whether big or small, Pulau and the people there allowed me such peace, comfort and friendship. I considered it ‘my place.' Over the course of my visits there, it became a place that allowed me insight to myself. Pulau Perhentian will always be my little corner of Paradise. 

Entrance to Panorama chalet and restaurant!

A little cafe on Long Beach, Pulau.

Panorama restaurant! Huge monitor lizards could often
be seen climbing the trees around here!

During high tide season, people can be seen surfing on Long Beach.

The peaceful water during low tide season.

The boat ride to Pulau Perhentian.

Coral Bay, Pulau Perhentian. View from the long dock.

Jonathan, Michael and I enjoying
the moonlight and sand on Long Beach!

Christina, Melissa and I relaxing on the beach!

The sunset over Long Beach, Pulau.

The sunset over Coral Bay, Romantic Beach. 

The Terengganu female ETAs having a girls' night
during our final trip to Pulau Perhentian.

Saying 'jumpa lagi' to Pulau Perhentian as the boat
pulled away from my Paradise.

Christina and I enjoyed a juice in the warm sun!

The view from a chalet on top of the mountain on Long Beach. 

Cikgu Rachael's Top 5 Malaysian Food/Beverage List

After a year of living and eating in Malaysia, what did Cikgu Rachael vote as her top 5 favorites?

#1 Roti Canai

Fellow ETA and friend, Jonathan, and I
indulging in roti canai!

Roti canai is actually a flatbread with Indian influence. It can be found all over Malaysia in stalls, as well as in Besut. My favorite place to get roti canai in Besut was at Nasi Kandar, which was a little restaurant near my house. In general, it is circular and flat, as well as flaky and soft. It is served with curry and dhal, which is a lentil curry. The process to make roti canai is actually quite difficult because the dough needs to be twirled until it is a thin sheet and then folded into a circular shape. When the fellow Terengganu ETAs and I arrived in our respective state for state-level orientation, we found a stall that sold it. Our friend asked if they could teach us to make it, so the man gave us a small hand cloth to practice twirling. It did not work out so well.

This is how roti canai is typically served. 

When the other Fulbrighters and I first arrived in Malaysia, we ate it practically everyday for the first few months. When our baju karungs and pants became a little tighter, some of us (including me) decided to cut back before we gained the ‘Fulbright 15.

Roti tissue drizzled with sugar, milk
and yummy goodness!

There are many different variations of roti canai, such as:

 Roti tissue (my mom and sister’s favorite) – flatbread with sugar and folded upward

Roti pesang – roti with bananas

Roti telur – roti with egg. Many of us tried to see it as an American omelette with some sort of nutritional value.

#2 Teh Tarik

Hot and yummy teh tarok!

Similar to my obsession with roti canai during my first few months in Malaysia, teh tarik became the replacement to my Starbucks Grande non-fat, no whip Mocha that I always had in America. Without any Starbucks or real coffee in Terengganu (they had instant coffee there), I turned to teh tarik. Like roti canai, teh tarik is an Indian influenced hot milk tea beverage. It can be found in virtually any restaurant or outdoor stall in southeastern Asian countries, especially Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore. Teh tarik literally means “pulled tea” because it is made through a process of “pulling” the drink during preparation. All in all, it involves heavily concentrated black tea, condensed milk and evaporated milk. The lady in my school canteen actually taught me how to make teh tarik, and I look forward to putting my skills to the test here in America in the near future!

           

#3 Sate Ayam

Sate ayam at the local food stall in Jerteh, Terengganu!

Similar to kebabs, sate ayam (chicken satay) are thin pieces of seasoned, grilled chicken put onto little skewers. It was served with incredible peanut sauce, as well as sticky, moist rice cakes. My roommate and I always enjoyed getting sate ayam from a stall in a market in Jerteh, the small city about fifteen minutes from us. In fact, the stall owners became quite familiar with us as well.

#4 Nasi Goreng Ayam

The first nasi goreng I had in Malaysia!
Adjacent is a teh tarik!

The running joke at my school was Cikgu Rachael’s love (perhaps obsession) with nasi goreng ayam. Anyone who was ever with me at some point in Malaysia, knew my love for this dish. Nasi goreng ayam is a white, fried rice mixed with red chilis, peppers, onions, spices, sweet soy sauce, garlic and small chicken pieces. It was served with cucumbers on the side to cut the spiciness, and it could be served with an egg on top as well. My favorite place to get nasi goreng ayam was in my very own SMK PNZ canteen (cafeteria). Every teacher and canteen worker knew that nasi goreng ayam was my go-to dish.

#5 Biscuits Hari Raya

Chocolate biscuits!

Biscuits Hari Raya get their name because they are most commonly found during Ramadan and Hari Raya. In short, there are several variations of these cookies. However, my favorite kind are the circular, mini-sized, crumbly cookies. My favorite flavors are chocolate, as well as the peanut flavor, but the list of flavors and variations goes on and on. My favorite place to buy these were in, once again, my school’s Koperarsi (book shop).

Honorable mention:

Jamaliah with her homemade Kek Lapis!

Kek Lapis Sarawak

Kek Lapis Sarawak is a layered cake commonly served and made in Sarawak, Malaysia on special occasions. These cakes must have at least two colors, and it has a high, firm texture with layers that are held together with jam or a sticky sweet substance. I was only able to try this special cake a few times, but it was delicious. In fact, a fellow teacher from KHAS, Jamaliah, was from Sarawak and made a cake especially for me before I left Malaysia. In addition, when I went to Borneo in July 2012, my friends and I ate our way through Kuching, Sarawak sampling every Kek Lepis that we saw!

Kek Lapis Sarawak!

Food photo gallery:

Nasi goreng ayam!

Nasi goreng ayam. There were
many different variations of this dish!

There are many varieties of Biscuits Hari Raya, as seen in
this photo. The biscuits were given to me by one of my students.

The Terengganu ETA family loved to eat, and we especially loved roti canai!
In fact, we made a whole video entitled "Roti Rolls" to demonstrate our love for it!
This is part of our group at a great roti canai shop in Kuala Terengganu, Malaysia!

Introduction to Malaysian Food: Halal versus Haraam

Seafood at our local 'pasar malam' (night market)
in Besut.

My readers who personally know me, know that I can be a bit of a picky eater. And, I hate to even mention it, but I am not much a seafood person. I will eat it. However, if I were to get a choice between chicken and fish, it would be chicken every time. - A little ironic that I was placed in a fishing village with an economy that is based heavily on the fishing industry.

This man is preparing fresh sugarcane juice. The way foods
are handled and prepared have to be halal for the Muslim
community. 

Halal is a term in Arabic that describes any object or action as permissible to use or engage in. This is based on Islamic law. The opposite of halal is haraam. In terms of food, halal foods are foods that follow Islamic dietary guidelines and are okay to eat. All in all, halal criteria specifies how foods must be prepared and what foods are allowed. For example, alcohol is forbidden under Islamic law, as well as pork products. Therefore, in Besut, it was not possible to find pork, a cold brew or any haraam products. In bigger Malaysian cities, both halal and haraam products could be found, but they were clearly identified and separated. For example, the grocery stores in Kuala Lumpur have the 'halal section' and a separate ‘haraam section.' Needless to say, because pork is my favorite meat, I missed it tremendously during my time in Besut, Malaysia.

Although Besut's markets and stores sold halal products,
it had no impact on my baking! My cookies were halal and
I often brought them to school for my students. This is last
Valentine's Day when I created sugar cookies for my
roommate and I to celebrate this American (and perhaps
Hallmark) holiday.

Overall, it was an eye-opening experience to live within a culture that was aware of dietary restrictions and limitations. Personally, it was not easy for me as I had never lived with dietary restrictions before. And yes, of course, there were times I craved my mom’s pork roast with a Guinness on the side, as well as nights I laid up dreaming of the cracker crust on my mom's breaded pork tenderloin. However, during my time in Besut, in terms of food, I lived halal. I respected their culture and always took it into consideration, whether it was choosing an American candy to bring into the classroom or deciding which foods to use for my English camps. 

Ramadan & Hari Raya Puasa

Female students and I enjoying our
beautiful Hari Raya clothes!

Hari Raya Puasa is an important occasion that is celebrated by Muslims all over the world. The festival marks the end of one month of fasting, known as Ramadan.

Ramadan is a one-month fasting periods in which Muslims fast from sun-up to sun-down. This often can be up to a period of 12 hours. Apart from eating and drinking, Muslims are also forbidden from smoking and having intimate relations. In addition, Muslims are expected to avoid lying, breaking promises and cheating during this time. Ultimately, Ramadan is a time of self-control in which Muslims must concentrate on submitting to their holy one, Allah.

My local Bazaar Ramadan in Besut!

During Ramadan, Bazaar Ramadans are seen throughout Islamic communities. In general, a Bazaar Ramadan is a huge open market with many varieties of food, snacks and gifts. Muslims come to these special markets to purchase foods for the large meals they enjoy after the sunset. (Usually after 7:15pm) During the month, Muslims also purchase and collect food for their large Hari Raya celebrations. (Similar to how my family starts purchasing gifts as well as items for our big Christmas dinner weeks before the dinner
itself). The Bazaar Ramadans were definitely an experience. As I was wandered through the long stretches of my local Bazaar Ramadan in Besut, I was often captivated by the many colorful foods, exotic smells and ambitious shoppers who meandered from stall to stall.

Form 4 girls and I enjoying each other's company at
the Hari Raya celebration.

At the conclusion of Ramadan, Muslims break the fast (puasa) with Hari Raya Puasa. To prepare for Hari Raya Puasa, the women start to sew new curtains as well as new baju karungs and baju melayus. In my teachers’ room at school, there were stacks of beautiful fabrics and complementary pins that were ideal for creating a new garment. On the morning of Hari Raya Puasa, Muslims wear their new clothes and go to the mosque to pray. First, they offer thanks to Allah. Then, they ask for forgiveness from their elders.

Asking forgiveness from elders is essential for the young ones. In fact, I received several “Selamat Hari Raya” (Happy Hari Raya) cards from my students that asked for my forgiveness for their mistakes on homework and behavior in class. The cards I did receive were from my most well behaved students too, ironically. For Hari Raya Puasa, homes are filled with wide varieties of spicy dishes. The Muslim children also receive money.

A Form 2 student offering some of
her homemade cupcakes for Hari Raya!

During Ramadan, there was still school and regular scheduled classes. It was no surprise to me that my students were very lethargic during the beginning of their fasting month. However, it amazed me how well they functioned by the end of Ramadan. Fasting and not drinking any sort of liquid, including water, in a tropical climate is no easy task. I attempted fasting for the first two days of Ramadan, just to see what my students would be experiencing. On day three, I chose to simply not eat or drink while at school during Ramadan, but after school I would be found gorging on food and drinking my weight in water in our home kitchen.

After my school’s week break for Hari Raya, there was a feast to be found in different areas of the school everyday. The different offices at the school hosted potlucks and teachers would go there to enjoy delicious foods on their breaks. Moreover, my school even hosted a school wide Hari Raya celebration. I was instructed to ‘look beautiful’ and wear my best baju karung. When I arrived at school that day, I saw that everyone definitely looked their best. The students did not even have to wear their uniforms! It was a day filled with music, beautiful clothing and food… lots of food!

The school wide Hari Raya celebration!
There was a large variety of foods.

The school wide Hari Raya celebration! About 900 plus
people gathered in the gymnasium and enjoyed a big meal!

My Form 4 students posing for a thumbs up!

A fellow teacher and I!

Some fun Form 4 students sporting their best attire!

A stand-out student of mine, Syatirah, and I! She was one
of the most outgoing sixteen year olds I have ever met!

My fellow teacher and I at the Hari Raya celebration!

KHAS students and I having fun at the celebration!

Teachers and I enjoying food at the school's
Hari Raya celebration. Everyone wore their best garments!

I was allowed to sit in the men's circle for a photo opportunity.

Students performed songs and poems, in Malay, on stage!

Form 4 students and I hiding in the shade
with smiles on our faces!

Ikan bakar (roasted chicken) at the local Bazaar Ramadan!

Roti tempayan (flat, flaky bread) at the local bazaar!

Pandan cake. It was a moist, soft cake special for Hari Raya.
The green color comes from the infamous Pandan leaf in Malaysia.

The melon stall, home to very fresh watermelon! Sedap (delicious!)

My fellow American friends and I enjoying food from the Bazaar Ramadan in Besut!
We became somewhat comfortable eating on my yoga mat and our home's huge carpet!
They came to Besut just to see our bazaar, as it was known as the best one in northern Terengganu!